Lifting Belt
How to change a timing belt on a Mazda Millennia 2001?
I try to change the timing belt on my Mazda. I'm in the army and have access to a car workroom where I can access tools and lifts to do the job. I wonder how he is difficult to do this job and how long it takes. Any information would be great thank you.
this engine? 2.5 is much easier than the 2.3. I never made a 2.5 but if it is 2.3, here are some tips. you must remove the wheel rt, and the splash shield. i also get the engine mount, and the upper radiator hose, which means that the draining coolant. this will give you permission to remove automatic belt tensioners. ahh, tendons of the automobile. there are 2. BUT WAIT, before pulling the straps / belts, make sure you loosen the bolt and nut for the pulley to pump water and P / s pump pulley otherwise, you'll need a strap wrench really good, and make a lot of profanity. long extensions, and sockets are a swivel head great help, especially when you remove the tensioner and the plastic cover. Of course, the engine must be supported, and at that time, you will probably notice the engine mounts are fubar. they are filled with liquid, and only last about 60 kb. do not get the ebay, they are not filled with liquid, and the engine will sit too high. the hood will be affected. ask me how I know. you'll need a really good tool for self adjuster. tensioners are spring loaded, and you have to relieve tension to give 2 serp belts off / on. if you try it with a box will require two strong men and a boy, and it is simply not much clearance there. the motor should be tilted up and down several times to get the stuff. you'll need a very good impact for the bolt on the harmonic balance. my impact is 600 ft / lbs of torque rev, and it breaks just lose the first time. if your engine has been in the belt rust, I first try to pull the vibration damper, because it will be there. if you can not pull the lever, you can not remove the covers, and you can not access the timing belt. is essential. even if it was not in the rust belt, it is difficult to remove. you can get a slide hammer kit to remove it. covers are held on 6 mm bolts, and you will need the long extensions and a swivel socket to reach them, or really small hands and double articulated arm. you must also change the tensioner, water pump, and pulleys. be prepared with the cam / crank seals, too. However, if you need to change the cam seals, it's a huge job. taken as a whole must come off. some of this information applies also in 2.5. Now the good news. Mazda Motors of non-interference. the belt is nitrile, and Mazda recommends changing it to 105k. I have seen or shot belts over 180k new look. water pumps appear to last very long, and the joints appear to be very good. unless you have a leak or a pump Water well, I let him go to 200k. if it breaks, all it will do is leave you stranded, it will not damage the engine.
The Lifting Belt
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